Hardboarding - How to Lay Hardboard
With sheet vinyl flooring, hardboarding is necessary to even out the gaps and lumps of timber floorboards. Read to find out how its done.
importance of hardboarding | hardboard size | fixing | butting | cleaning
Importance of hardboarding
It cannot be stressed enough how important hardboarding is if you want a good vinyl floor. DON'T try missing it out - when you are advised to have it done believe the salesman or fitter that's advising you - they aren't just trying to make a bit extra out of you.
Comprehensive instructions below explain how to do it yourself prior to the vinyl fitters arriving - but be clear - if you don't do it properly you will cost yourself more when it has to be taken up and redone professionally. Once fitted, hardboard won't stand taking up and relaying - the damage to the hardboard will render it useless (at least for vinyl). It might be possible to restore it as a sufficient surface for vinyl with some hard work sanding and filling with two-pack wood resin filler, but just replacing it would be a more practical route.
Hardboard size; dampening; oil tempering
Most professional fitters will generally use 8' x 4' hardboard (2.44m x 1.22m) unless the area is very small, then 4'x 2' boards (1.22m x 0.61m) might be better. Fitters use the larger boards because they will probably be cheaper!
The other important factor is making the boards stable. There are two methods of ensuring that the hardboard won't buckle after it's laid. The usual method is to damp it and let it dry out.
To do this the boards are laid out with the rough side up. Then using a hose or buckets, the hardboard is soaked thoroughly. A (yard) brush is used to work the water into the rough side making sure every part of the surface is soaked. The boards are then allowed to dry out - it is ok to stand them up carefully but care must be taken to avoid damaging the edges.
The second method is to use oil-tempured hardboard which are more expensive, but even this benefits from a soaking. If the hardboard is not soaked and dryed out, then it will flex after fitting resulting in raised spongy patches - the only way to rectify this is to uplift every thing and start again, starting with soaking the hardboard.
Fixing the boards - brick pattern; staples; 6" centres
It is best to stagger the hardboard sheets so as not to have all the corners in one place, rather like laying bricks (so they span adjacent bricks/boards). Lay the rough side down and the smooth side up.
Using a (hired) staple gun and hammer you should staple through the hardboard so the staple is punched slightly below the surface. Staples should be every 6" both ways or the boards will end up with raised patches (and you'll have to start again). Don't try skimping on the staple gun and hammer, it is hard work without it!
Butting the boards - slight gap
There should be a fine gap between the hardboard sheets, enough to slide a folded cigarette paper into. This will stop slight differences in thickness resulting in lines that will show through the vinyl when it's laid. Slight ridges should be sanded down if there are any. Make absolutely sure you hoover up the dust.
Clean the finished hardboarding before laying the vinyl
When the hardboarding is finished, run your hand over the surface of the hardboard and punch any slightly protrouding staples below the surface. Finally, clean the floor thoroughly so as not to leave any dust or bits behind - they will show up and even cut through the vinyl when it is trodden on (besides irritating the hell out of you).
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